India, our studio seamstress, recently created a stunning summer dress using nothing but our sea green check linen and a bit of clever pattern-cutting. The best part? You can make one too. Here's her complete guide to crafting your own. We stock a wonderful range of pure linen fabric, linen bias binding and matching thread.
What You'll Need
Gather these materials before you begin:
- Approximately 3 metres of sea green check linen
- Elastic, 1cm wide, cut to your waist measurement
- Linen bias binding, 4cm wide, up to 4 metres
- Basic sewing supplies: thread, scissors, pins, and a safety pin
Step 1: Take Your Measurements
Start by measuring your bust circumference. This measurement will determine the width of each of your front and back body pieces—so your total dress circumference will be twice your bust measurement. Follow the cutting diagram carefully for all other dimensions, and don't forget to cut four pocket pieces if you'd like pockets in your side seams.
Step 2: Attach the Pockets
Place your pocket pieces right sides together with the sides of your dress front and back pieces. Sew them in place, positioning them where they'll sit comfortably against your body.
Step 3: Sew the Side Seams
Lay your front and back pieces right sides together and sew down both side seams, carefully stitching around the outer edges of the pockets as you go. Finish the raw edges with an overlock or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
Step 4: Create the Ruffle Hem
Sew the short sides of your ruffle piece together to form a loop. Using a loose running stitch, sew along the top long edge of the ruffle. Pull the bobbin thread to gather the ruffle until it matches your dress hem measurement. With right sides together, attach the gathered ruffle to the dress hem, then seal the edges with an overlock or zigzag stitch.
Step 5: Finish the Hem
Turn the dress hem over by 1cm, then fold again and stitch in place for a neat, professional finish.
Step 6: Gather and Bind the Front Neckline
Sew a loose running stitch along the front neckline and gather until it reaches your original bust measurement. Secure the gathers with bias binding using your preferred method—YouTube has excellent tutorials if you need guidance.
Step 7: Shape the Back Neckline
Create a loose running stitch along the scoop back neckline and gather until it fits your back comfortably. India's tip: attach string to the strap points as a placeholder, try the dress on, and adjust for the perfect fit. Once you're happy, secure the gathers with bias binding.
Step 8: Attach the Straps
Using your string placeholders, adjust the strap points until the dress sits perfectly on your shoulders. Measure around each armhole to determine how much bias binding you'll need for the straps. Sew the ends of the binding together diagonally to create one continuous circle, then attach to each armhole, sealing all edges.
Step 9: Add Waist Definition (Optional)
If you prefer a dress with waist definition rather than a loose, billowy silhouette, measure down from the armpit to your natural waist. Sew bias binding around the inner circumference at this point, leaving a 1-inch gap at the side seam for threading elastic.
Step 10: Thread the Elastic and Finish
Cut elastic to fit comfortably around your waist—snug but not tight. Using a safety pin, thread it through the waist channel you created. When it emerges on the other side, sew the elastic ends together with several forward and back stitches. Stretch the waist a few times to distribute the gathers evenly, then stitch the remaining gap closed. Trim all loose threads and admire your work.
You now have a beautiful, custom summer dress ready for sunny days ahead! The sea green check linen drapes beautifully and the simple construction means you can easily adjust the fit to suit your body perfectly.
Love making with linen? Try our free large linen tote bag pattern — another simple make using our beautiful pure linen fabrics.
Shop the fabric: Sea green check linen fabric · Linen bias binding · Linen fabric sample pack